As you can see, there are two bits to Malaysia: peninsular (south of Thailand, north of Singapore) and island-ular/East (north of Indonesia with the country Brunei stuck in the middle of it). The Eastern bit is refereed to as "Borneo" and then broken down into the two states of Sabah and Sarawak.We flew from Johor Baharu on the peninsula to Kuching in Sarawak.
Despite giving ourselves MORE than enough time in the morning to get a bus in Singapore to the airport in Johor Bahru, one minor complication after another caused us to be in a cab going 100-some odd km fast, sprinting through the airport Amazing Race style with our huge bags, and throwing money at the (now closed) airline attendant to beg/plead/persuade us to get on. In the end, we did... soooo lucky!
Borneo, baby!!!
After arriving in Kuching, we took a much less efficient cab ride up to Bako National Park and then a boat ride from "Uncle Sam" and his son.
As we were getting off the boat, a few lounging locals pointed out this guy! A proboscis monkey! These things are totally insane. Check this out for a better picture: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Proboscis_monkey. So lucky to see not only one, but two of these dudes chilling and jumping around. They looked like furry Adrien Brody's to me.
Jump, jump!
These monkeys, everyone 'gets' to see. They're usually stealing something from you. Because of them, we couldn't keep our tent out during the day. Not that taking down and putting up our tent every day isn't awesome or anything.
Hittin' one of the 16 superbly well maintained trails.
Ending the day at the nearest beach and having an impromptu Malaysian Top Model photo shoot. Clearly we were very inspired by mediocre reality TV shows this day.
Sunset through the mangroves.
Totally felt like I was on Lost here after spotting a wild boar. Yes, a wild boar!
We awoke to the sound of a mess (a clan, a gagle???) of monkeys parading down the fence around the campsite.
Packed up as quick as possible and headed out for a full day of hiking the awesomely diverse trails.
This is a pitcher plant. It's carnivorous and eats small children... or more commonly, insects. That deep cavity you see is filled with a liquid to trap prey. The little buggers fly or crawl around because it looks oh so perty, and once inside they can't get out because the sides are slippery. Then they drown in liquid and eventually dissolve via bacteria or enzymes. Ah, the beautiful circle of life.
My obsession for mushrooms intensified in Malaysia: the mushrooms from Super Mario Brothers actually exist!
Beach number two, all to ourselves.
Along the way we saw no tourists and one park ranger, Kaili. He was awesome. This is about the time I started becoming so thoroughly impressed by Malaysians ability to speak English. And it wasn't just the tourism employed Malaysians. The vast majority of Malaysians we interacted with understood everything we said and could speak almost as well. As teachers of English in Japan, we demanded Kellie explain to us how this was possible. I got my video camera ready, all set to show my students back in Japan his infinite words of wisdom. His response: "it's easy." Thanks, Kaili.
He also pointed out an eagle's nest to us and lent us his binocs so we could see the amazing white eagle in all it's glory.
Beach number three: secluded.
Or so we thought! I wasn't too upset to have to share it with sexy Lucas from Switzerland, though.
Most incredible sunset I may have ever seen in my life... which is saying a lot, people. A LOT.
And the kids have come out to play!
I insisted to Julie that we camp at some point and time during this trip... nothing says "vacation" better than ice cold showers in the pitch black, setting up and taking down a tent every day because of monkeys tearing it to bits, and storing all your belongs in a musty bathroom during the days
... we were the only ones with this brilliant plan.
More hiking and more fun friends.
Following up a rousing swim in the luke warm water with a rousing bout of karaoke on the beach!
Time to head back to Kuching. Bye bye Bako!
Sunday, June 21, 2009
Malaysia: Take One: Bako National Park
So, in my last blog I mentioned we were in Singapore, bound for Malaysia. For the majority of people in Wisconsin/the world (ie non ALTs living in Japan with lots of 'free time' and opportunities to travel), this means very little. I didn't know a thing about either country before coming here. So, here is a map for some perspective. Malaysia's the country shaded in green.
Saturday, June 20, 2009
Singapore in less than 24 hours
April 25th. 5:30am. Wearily roll out of the futon toward my 70 Liter powder blue backpack filled with everything from a swimsuit to a sleeping bag to Caloriemate gel packs. Once conscious, I've got a 25 min bike ride to the train station followed by a 2 1/2 hour train ride to the airport followed by a 4 hour flight to Singapore followed by a 15 min train ride to Little India district followed by a 15 min walk to the hostel. It's days like these that I look forward to more than most others because it means yet another epic adventure has begun.
Golden Week is the name for a string of random holidays (ie Greenery Day, Children's Day, Substitute Holiday) in Japan that occur in early May. I used those holidays and took another six days of paid leave off to get a full two weeks traveling in Singapore in Malaysia. My travel buddy was Julie, whom I randomly met on a train after we had each finished a hiking weekend in Oze last fall. Two tents, four hiking boots and enough white skin to blind all of Gunma between us. Instant connection! Turned out she too was a JET in my prefecture and we've been best buds since.
Anyway, we thought we were quite clever to have saved up all those days of leave and get TWO full weeks! Felt like we were spoiling ourselves and could see and do everything there was to do in Malaysia. We were so so wrong and understood after being there why everyone else we met was traveling/living there for a month or more.
Although we didn't all have the same 'final' destinations, a bunch of us were going through Singapore (internationally cheapest airport arrival locale). So what better way to kick off a 6am day of commuting than on the party train! I even splurged for the 'green car' seats, a BIG deal for me. Note the lack of Japanese on the party train.
Spectacular clouds and Slumdog Millionaire. Best flight ever!
The whole crew after an awesome ride on the party plane! Julie and I are the only ones with the great plan to camp in Malaysia and thus the only ones with what looks like small children on our backs.
Singapore is a country, a city, and an island. It's the smallest southeast Asian country, but the 5th wealthiest in the world.
The hostel we stayed at was in the Little India district and was super cute.
I was so focused on Malaysia that I didn't really learn too much before hand about Singapore. Being there though, I was totally impressed. First impression? The entire city is immaculate. Japan is clean, but Singapore is IMMACULATE. I'm thinking it has a little something to do with the $1,000 fine for littering ($2000 and up for repeat offenders). I also realized how much I was lacking/missing cultural diversity in Japan. There were all kinds of people and restaurants and buildings and nuance in Singapore. It was awesome. The last awesome aspect of Singapore was all the greenery. Even though it definitely had that city feel with the buildings and mass transit and heaps of people, they managed to take enough care in the urban planning to integrate trees and shrubs and parks and greenery EVERYWHERE. Very impressive.
A view of the central business district at night with the 'famous' Malay lion at night (pic stolen from Alexander Laws at http://www.photoblog.com/AlexanderLaws/2008/01/26/singapore.html ).
The Esplanade, theaters on the bay.
That night we decided to do dinner Singapore style: at a Hawker center with lots of seafood.
Chili crab.
Tiger beer!
My favorite dish of the night: Stingray. My first and definitely not my last experience.
A sight you will never see in Wisconsin: late night vegetable market.
In the am I took a run around the surrounding areas. Very cool vibe.
Unfortunately, we had to get a bus to head off on another aeroplane that day. The time I had in Singapore I really enjoyed though and planned on getting a few more days in there at the end of the trip... of course, that never happened as other adventurous opportunities arose:)
Golden Week is the name for a string of random holidays (ie Greenery Day, Children's Day, Substitute Holiday) in Japan that occur in early May. I used those holidays and took another six days of paid leave off to get a full two weeks traveling in Singapore in Malaysia. My travel buddy was Julie, whom I randomly met on a train after we had each finished a hiking weekend in Oze last fall. Two tents, four hiking boots and enough white skin to blind all of Gunma between us. Instant connection! Turned out she too was a JET in my prefecture and we've been best buds since.
Anyway, we thought we were quite clever to have saved up all those days of leave and get TWO full weeks! Felt like we were spoiling ourselves and could see and do everything there was to do in Malaysia. We were so so wrong and understood after being there why everyone else we met was traveling/living there for a month or more.
Although we didn't all have the same 'final' destinations, a bunch of us were going through Singapore (internationally cheapest airport arrival locale). So what better way to kick off a 6am day of commuting than on the party train! I even splurged for the 'green car' seats, a BIG deal for me. Note the lack of Japanese on the party train.
Spectacular clouds and Slumdog Millionaire. Best flight ever!
The whole crew after an awesome ride on the party plane! Julie and I are the only ones with the great plan to camp in Malaysia and thus the only ones with what looks like small children on our backs.
Singapore is a country, a city, and an island. It's the smallest southeast Asian country, but the 5th wealthiest in the world.
The hostel we stayed at was in the Little India district and was super cute.
I was so focused on Malaysia that I didn't really learn too much before hand about Singapore. Being there though, I was totally impressed. First impression? The entire city is immaculate. Japan is clean, but Singapore is IMMACULATE. I'm thinking it has a little something to do with the $1,000 fine for littering ($2000 and up for repeat offenders). I also realized how much I was lacking/missing cultural diversity in Japan. There were all kinds of people and restaurants and buildings and nuance in Singapore. It was awesome. The last awesome aspect of Singapore was all the greenery. Even though it definitely had that city feel with the buildings and mass transit and heaps of people, they managed to take enough care in the urban planning to integrate trees and shrubs and parks and greenery EVERYWHERE. Very impressive.
A view of the central business district at night with the 'famous' Malay lion at night (pic stolen from Alexander Laws at http://www.photoblog.com/AlexanderLaws/2008/01/26/singapore.html ).
The Esplanade, theaters on the bay.
That night we decided to do dinner Singapore style: at a Hawker center with lots of seafood.
Chili crab.
Tiger beer!
My favorite dish of the night: Stingray. My first and definitely not my last experience.
A sight you will never see in Wisconsin: late night vegetable market.
In the am I took a run around the surrounding areas. Very cool vibe.
Unfortunately, we had to get a bus to head off on another aeroplane that day. The time I had in Singapore I really enjoyed though and planned on getting a few more days in there at the end of the trip... of course, that never happened as other adventurous opportunities arose:)
Tuesday, May 26, 2009
Spring is HERE! Time to Hanami!
You know it's Spring when you see sakura (cherry blossoms). It is probably the single most anticipated event in Japan, and I can definitely see why. Spring couldn't have come any sooner for me as I was D-U-N with winter approximately 2.5 days after it began.
I give a lot of detail about 'sakura' and 'hanami' in my previous post (http://sarahmoersfelder.blogspot.com/2008/04/sakura-real-deal.html), so if you missed it and want to know more, check that out. Otherwise, just browse the pics below and enjoy.
Even though I was bummed to leave Okinawa (and be sunburnt), almost my entire train ride from Tokyo to Maebashi was lined with sakura trees. It was incredibly beautiful. I love how Japan can so graceful blend city and nature together.
This is the view of my 'backyard'.
The Momonoki River I get to bike along every day.
Cherry blossoms in bloom = time to hanami (cherry blossom viewing/picnicking). And hanami we did. This is Shikishima Park, one of the best in Gunma for sures.
Spotted 'em! So there we sat, on our little tarp with food and drinks to last a week, never ending conversations, my mini speakers providing some tunes, sporadic objects being thrown, and of course the view of cherry blossoms in full bloom gracefully falling from the trees surrounding us.
Not only must you enjoy the flowers, you must take pictures of them. You must take MANY pictures of them. Or else, you are not Japanese. Below, a cute old man demonstrates how to be Japanese, and cute!
Although most Japanese hanami only with their family and friends in a small and intimate group surrounded by many other small and intimate groups around them, we are foreigners so we like to wander and disrupt/join other hanamis. This is a group of Phillipinos living in Gunma.
And this... THIS is the magic. When the light hits just right and wind blows just subtly enough and the cute kids are playing amidst it all... that's when the magic happens.
That night I headed to Tatabayashi (another city in Gunma) to talk Malaysia with Julie and hanami again the next day. And hanami we did. Julie is rightfully displaying her awesome carrot cake. Mmmmm.
Making new friends in Tats, with Benny (a guy who loves American army lingo) and Travis (a guy who helped explain the army jokes Benny made to me).
Cherry blossoms in bloom = time to hanami (cherry blossom viewing/picnicking). And hanami we did. This is Shikishima Park, one of the best in Gunma for sures.
Spotted 'em! So there we sat, on our little tarp with food and drinks to last a week, never ending conversations, my mini speakers providing some tunes, sporadic objects being thrown, and of course the view of cherry blossoms in full bloom gracefully falling from the trees surrounding us.
Not only must you enjoy the flowers, you must take pictures of them. You must take MANY pictures of them. Or else, you are not Japanese. Below, a cute old man demonstrates how to be Japanese, and cute!
Although most Japanese hanami only with their family and friends in a small and intimate group surrounded by many other small and intimate groups around them, we are foreigners so we like to wander and disrupt/join other hanamis. This is a group of Phillipinos living in Gunma.
And this... THIS is the magic. When the light hits just right and wind blows just subtly enough and the cute kids are playing amidst it all... that's when the magic happens.
That night I headed to Tatabayashi (another city in Gunma) to talk Malaysia with Julie and hanami again the next day. And hanami we did. Julie is rightfully displaying her awesome carrot cake. Mmmmm.
Making new friends in Tats, with Benny (a guy who loves American army lingo) and Travis (a guy who helped explain the army jokes Benny made to me).
Say "hanami!"
Julie doesn't think much of Tatabayashi, but I thought it was pretty gorgeous. AND they had like a million and one carp streamers up in anticipation of Kodomo-no-hi (Children's Day).
Julie doesn't think much of Tatabayashi, but I thought it was pretty gorgeous. AND they had like a million and one carp streamers up in anticipation of Kodomo-no-hi (Children's Day).
Thanks for the Easter Peeps, parentals! They were a big hit:)
CARP STREAMERS!!!
Saturday, May 23, 2009
Spring Break in Okinawa: Zamami Island
Last stop on the Okinawa agenda for me was Zamami island. Since it was relatively close to Naha, again I thought it'd be packed. And again, I was pleasantly surprised. This time I had people to entertain me on the ferry and the camp site even bore a few others. Not nearly as lonely, but still just as safe. 
Almost there!
The best part was that the weather finally cleared up, allowing sunshine and a lack of vomit inducing ferry rides. A definite plus!
I made it!
The first chance I had to put on that swimsuit I'd been lugging around and I couldn't have been happier! I was a little too happy, though. I blissfully delayed putting on sunscreen for all of 4 hours one morning, enjoying my book, the rays, and a swim. That was the last day of my trip. It didn't happen for 2 days after my return, but I ended up having THE WORST sunburn of my entire life. And I'm a whitey, I've been burnt many a time. We're talking blisters so big it looked like a million hands were grasping me around my torso. I literally could, not, move. I had to take off of work for the first time in my life. It sucked. A lot. And I hope it never ever ever happens again. SPF 50 at all times for me! I'm still peeling (it's been 2 months).
The camp site, which had that beach I'm on (above) immediately behind it. Perrrrrfect!
One of Okinawa's 'famous foods', goya (with clam shells) and the local brew, Orion. Both were pretty tasty!
So there I am, maxing and relaxing by myself on the beautiful beach and this guy goes out for the catch of the day. I end up 'talking' to him (all in Japanese, a total feat for me) for a pretty long time.
He proceeds to serve up the freshest sushi I have EVER had in my life.
Lunch is served!
He left for awhile, then came back with ice cream and his cute little dog. Cool guy.
Awesome tree.
Even more awesome sunset, as they always are!
Okinawa: maybe not the most amazing or impressing location I've been in my life (I'm super spoiled, though), but definitely exactly what I needed at exactly the right time. I got to do a lot of thinking and reflecting, which I don't do enough about my life. I'm a do-er and and a go-er, and it was really a lot different not to be traveling with anyone else or have something planned every minute of the day. Sometimes it was boring or lonely, but mostly it was helpful and necessary (other than that sunburn!).
Almost there!
The best part was that the weather finally cleared up, allowing sunshine and a lack of vomit inducing ferry rides. A definite plus!
I made it!
The first chance I had to put on that swimsuit I'd been lugging around and I couldn't have been happier! I was a little too happy, though. I blissfully delayed putting on sunscreen for all of 4 hours one morning, enjoying my book, the rays, and a swim. That was the last day of my trip. It didn't happen for 2 days after my return, but I ended up having THE WORST sunburn of my entire life. And I'm a whitey, I've been burnt many a time. We're talking blisters so big it looked like a million hands were grasping me around my torso. I literally could, not, move. I had to take off of work for the first time in my life. It sucked. A lot. And I hope it never ever ever happens again. SPF 50 at all times for me! I'm still peeling (it's been 2 months).
The camp site, which had that beach I'm on (above) immediately behind it. Perrrrrfect!
One of Okinawa's 'famous foods', goya (with clam shells) and the local brew, Orion. Both were pretty tasty!
So there I am, maxing and relaxing by myself on the beautiful beach and this guy goes out for the catch of the day. I end up 'talking' to him (all in Japanese, a total feat for me) for a pretty long time.
He proceeds to serve up the freshest sushi I have EVER had in my life.
Lunch is served!
He left for awhile, then came back with ice cream and his cute little dog. Cool guy.
Awesome tree.
Even more awesome sunset, as they always are!
Okinawa: maybe not the most amazing or impressing location I've been in my life (I'm super spoiled, though), but definitely exactly what I needed at exactly the right time. I got to do a lot of thinking and reflecting, which I don't do enough about my life. I'm a do-er and and a go-er, and it was really a lot different not to be traveling with anyone else or have something planned every minute of the day. Sometimes it was boring or lonely, but mostly it was helpful and necessary (other than that sunburn!).
Monday, May 18, 2009
Spring Break in Okinawa: Iheya Island
Getting from Naha down in the south west area of Okinawa island waaaaay up to Iheya island (the one that's conveniently shaded in blue, which doesn't represent flooding or anything) was a trip in itself. I knew it'd take a while and was hoping to spend a whole day on the island, so I woke up exxxxtra early, even after going out 'on the town' (remember, there's really only one road with any activity) in Naha.
Ahhhh, the beautiful Okinawan weather I was hoping for.
After an am walk, cab ride, and 2 bus rides, I was back to walking, this time to Unten Port to take a ferry to Iheya island. The sky was starting to clear up and I got to see some of those famous Okinawan rice fields.
And flowers.
And not so famous, but still cool, snails.
All that rushing and extra early rise got me to the ferry terminal just in time to wait for 4 hours.
I'm usually all about ferry rides. Love to sit out on the top deck, taking in the rays and scenery. This time around, I was more preoccupied with keeping down lunch... which I was unsuccessful at doing, thanks to this:
I didn't really know what to expect when I got to island. I just knew there was camping and it was far enough away from what I expected would be an overcrowded and touristy main island Okinawa. Get away from the crowds I did. Iheya population = me. One main road, no buses, no taxis, very few cars, one bike rental place.
This was my home for 2 nights. It was an incredible feeling to have such a vast and beautiful surrounding all to myself. I'm not gonna lie though, I was Blair Witch-ed out on several accounts. I kept getting paranoid that I was being followed or that somebody was gonna pop into my tent. I honestly only saw less than 20 other people on the island (and I went around the WHOLE thing) the whole time. On the bright side, I could go to the bathroom wherever and whenever I wanted!
My PIMP ride!
One of the 3 "attractions" of the island: Kumaya cave.
It was cold and windy, but the views were still stunning.
This is what I mean by cold and windy. My tent capsized on several accounts.
Had me a lot of time to munch and read, munch and read. I was so proud of myself - got through two (count it!), TWO books this trip!
And of course still fit in some hikes. Up on one of the peaks looking down at the rice paddies.
Attraction #2 of the island: the big umbrella tree.
Iheya was a pretty island where more seclusion (than I could've ever asked for) was accomplished. I really liked having absolutely no schedule or agenda and just taking everything in at my own speed... but, not being able to share it with anyone was kind of sad. There are definitely pros and cons to traveling solo, but I think the worst part is just not being able to share the joy of the experience with anyone. I enjoyed it, but I don't think I'd opt for solo trips given the choice.
Ahhhh, the beautiful Okinawan weather I was hoping for.
After an am walk, cab ride, and 2 bus rides, I was back to walking, this time to Unten Port to take a ferry to Iheya island. The sky was starting to clear up and I got to see some of those famous Okinawan rice fields.
And flowers.
And not so famous, but still cool, snails.
All that rushing and extra early rise got me to the ferry terminal just in time to wait for 4 hours.
I'm usually all about ferry rides. Love to sit out on the top deck, taking in the rays and scenery. This time around, I was more preoccupied with keeping down lunch... which I was unsuccessful at doing, thanks to this:I didn't really know what to expect when I got to island. I just knew there was camping and it was far enough away from what I expected would be an overcrowded and touristy main island Okinawa. Get away from the crowds I did. Iheya population = me. One main road, no buses, no taxis, very few cars, one bike rental place.
This was my home for 2 nights. It was an incredible feeling to have such a vast and beautiful surrounding all to myself. I'm not gonna lie though, I was Blair Witch-ed out on several accounts. I kept getting paranoid that I was being followed or that somebody was gonna pop into my tent. I honestly only saw less than 20 other people on the island (and I went around the WHOLE thing) the whole time. On the bright side, I could go to the bathroom wherever and whenever I wanted!
My PIMP ride!
One of the 3 "attractions" of the island: Kumaya cave.
It was cold and windy, but the views were still stunning.
This is what I mean by cold and windy. My tent capsized on several accounts.Had me a lot of time to munch and read, munch and read. I was so proud of myself - got through two (count it!), TWO books this trip!
And of course still fit in some hikes. Up on one of the peaks looking down at the rice paddies.
Attraction #2 of the island: the big umbrella tree.
Iheya was a pretty island where more seclusion (than I could've ever asked for) was accomplished. I really liked having absolutely no schedule or agenda and just taking everything in at my own speed... but, not being able to share it with anyone was kind of sad. There are definitely pros and cons to traveling solo, but I think the worst part is just not being able to share the joy of the experience with anyone. I enjoyed it, but I don't think I'd opt for solo trips given the choice.
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